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	ScaleAero Supporting Vendor	Joined: September/09/2003 United States Posts: 8698 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 7:41am		Quote

Quote: Rowdyjoe

One of the other guys on that thread relayed a story from his friend who uses
Ceconite Lite and is applying Latex paint directly to the surface without primer. He says the
weave is very tight and filling with primer is not necessary. The plan is coming together.

Primer's "primary" function is preparation of a surface to permit "uniform & level" appearance of
color coats when they are "finally" applied...not fill a weave to appear smooth. A lot of folks have
used fabric on models which were all or partially metal skinned. The nickname for this is "weight".

All "normally" appearing fabric covered 1:1 aircraft will show fabric weave when a focused light
source reflects against the surface. Any 1:1 which does not exhibit this is a lead sled compared
to its properly painted counterparts. "Wetness" of a painted surface has absolutely nothing to do
with volume of paint applied after the first properly applied top coat...be it two or single stage. Do
not misunderstand me. It is possible to attain a smooth metal look finish with a can of paint.

Preparation for Latex paint is particularly important to achieve a "durable" finish. Preparation will
be identical to Acrylic paints because they are one and the same aside from the % of Acrylic in a
final formula. Both of these are water based...not oil based.

Bonding to a surface is achieved through applying an agent (liquid) as a "gripper" to permit the
surface to properly sandwich "with" the surface, be it either smooth or course. Pigment within a
Latex paint is typically larger/smaller across the color spectrum of the paint. An application will
vary radically from white to black. If "color" is what you are painting for...apply a primer darker
or whiter to aid in achieving the desired color "density/shade".

Achieving an extremely smooth "egg shell" realistic 1:1 surface is radically effected by surface

texture, and application volume of any type paint. Its not a miracle in a can, regardless how it
is applied.

Grades/types of Latex paint can behave/appear radically different by virtue of additives not in
every brand. Principal disappointment is a shingled or course final appearance after someone
has properly prepared a surface. Yes, its the blush in Lacquer, excessive creep of poly-u and
enamel, and flaky "loose" Latex.

Latex paints are an emulsion of polymer particles dispersed in water. Macroemulsions in latex
paints are inherently unstable and curing phase separate, so surfactants are added to lower an
interfacial tension and stabilize polymer particles to prevent demulsification (seperation).

To prevent or reduce the tendency for Latex pigment platelets to not lay flat can be
achieved with proper surface prep and addition of Floetrol in prescribed volume.

__________________
Ed
http://www.flitemetal.com
http://www.mac-models.com

	marmbrust Lifetime Site Supporter	Joined: February/03/2009 United States Posts: 5109 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 8:12am		Quote

Here is my latex tutorial with pics... All I use is latex.... in general I spary flat paint only and use clear to set the gloss... but know this... you will NEVER EVER get a glossy paint with latex like you can with car paint or epoxy. Also if you try and teat it like other paints you will not be happy.... must use 3-5 light wet coats when painting.

Link

here are a few pics of latex I have sprayed

__________________
Mark
S. Florida
Building: Graves' Fokker G1

Flying:Merlyn Graves Ki-100, Ziroli B25, BUSA 1/3 Stearman,1/3 N28, 1/3 Pup,27% Gee Bee Sportster, Sig 1/3 Spacewalker, WH 27% Bird Dog

	Rowdyjoe Basic Member	Joined: August/23/2018 United States Posts: 30 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 3:09pm		Quote

Thanks guys. I appreciate this info. Added to the articles written by Roy Vaillancourt, I will have a much better chance for success.

I'm getting ramped up to give all this a try. While I'm waiting on the material I need to sand/prep everything, decide on a color (probably Cub yellow), get masking tape and paint, get materials and build my "booth", buy a paint gun, etc. Lots to do but, that's what it's all about. :)

About the primer ....should I use a latex primer or an automotive primer with the latex paint?

__________________
Garry
Arlington, TX

	ScaleAero Supporting Vendor	Joined: September/09/2003 United States Posts: 8698 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 3:51pm		Quote

Rattle can automotive all purpose primer/sealer is sandable. Its
available in multiple shades of grey, dove, and white...do not
purchase the barn red primer...

If you are thinking of using old newspaper for masking off surfaces
be aware the ink is organic and can transfer from paper to Latex.

Find a box seller like Anchor Box where blank/unprinted packing
paper is sold in wide sheets by the pound.

__________________
Ed
http://www.flitemetal.com
http://www.mac-models.com

	Rowdyjoe Basic Member	Joined: August/23/2018 United States Posts: 30 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 4:30pm		Quote

Thanks Ed.

__________________
Garry
Arlington, TX

	ScotWare Lifetime Site Supporter	Joined: January/29/2005 United States Posts: 2659 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 4:30pm		Quote

You can also get wide rolls at my local Lowes. Linky

__________________
Scott

33% Tiger Moth Inherited Project
Albatros DII (On Hold)

	LBJ Lifetime Site Supporter	Joined: August/21/2012 United States Posts: 5169 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 4:32pm		Quote

RJ, my 2 cents worth here. Rattle can primer does work, but I find it takes a LONG time to completely dry to the point of not gumming up your sandpaper. Advantage 301 Primer with Advantage Medium Dry Time Acryllic Thinner from English Color will be dry and ready to sand before you set you spray gun down! Also, I use the masking paper by the roll from Lowe's and Home Depot that is 12 inches wide. It also comes in smaller widths. But it's cheap, easy to find, and clean. For tape, use 1 inch Green Frog when ever you are masking off directly on the model surface as it will give razor sharp paint lines and won't pull up paint when you lift it off. Use regular vanilla masking tape anywhere you are not directly on the model itself to save the more expensive Green tape. Also, the foam/sponge sanding blocks are great for sanding the primer. And, ScotchBrite pads are great for lightly going over a coat of latex paint between coats to knock off any bugs or oversprays. The Scotchbrite pads are also handy to (lightly) use before adding any markings over latex to make sure the surface is clean and flat if you are using paint masks. They work well to smooth the surface if you are using vinyl rub-on markings as well. Not to forget, before painting with primer or latex, it is a good idea to use wax and grease remover Advantage 109 to clean off anything that will ruin the paint job such as oil from your hands. It is also fantastic for cleaning your model after flights! Takes the 2 stroke oil residue off like magic.

__________________
LBJ Fort Worth, TEXAS
There are always TWO sides to every story. Proverbs 18:17
Current Projects
Ziroli Hellcat
BlackHorse Corsair ARF

	Rowdyjoe Basic Member	Joined: August/23/2018 United States Posts: 30 IP Logged
Posted: August/26/2018 at 4:37pm		Quote

Scott,

Thanks.

I had some of that paper but, ran out and haven't had an excuse to buy more. Now I do. I even have a "special" bar/roller/dispenser I keep it on that has become a catch all in my garage for every wet/dirty/waiting-to-be-washed shop rag I don't know what to do with. Now, I'll have to find another catch-all. :)

__________________
Garry
Arlington, TX

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