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Avatar User Offline Skyediamonds
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 4:37pm  Quote
 
LBJ, foodstick;

Thank you gentlemen.  I'll definitely check out SIG's Koverall.  I'm not afraid to do a little extra work for the same scale effects.  It's what I do.  There's an alternative out there already.  It's called Oratex.  It's made in Germany and it's supposedly an exact duplicate of Solartex.  Only problem is that the German manufacturer doesn't export to the USA despite its willingness to ship all across Europe.  The "official" distributor of Oratex is supposed to be Horizon Hobbies.  Unfortunately, my correspondences with both have resulted in mass confusion.  The manufacturer insisted it's a new dea,l and many people in Horizon are not familiar with their new product and the people of Horizon maintain that they've never heard of it and recommended me to call a special phone number that turned out to be in Alaska.....  Hmmmm

I've still kept the original emails and copies of all that stuff, but it's getting boring.

So, if Koverall is the answer, I'll swing with it.  

Thank you guys again.  It's great to have a great team.

Sincerely,

Skye (Gary)

 
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Avatar User Online ScaleAero
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 4:45pm  Quote
 
Howdy fellow Texan Polyester dress liner (Dacron) works fabulously after applying
SIG Stix-It and letting it dry. Dacron when shrunk will hold drum tight for years with
"0" maintenance. Some Walmarts still have sewing departments and Joann's has it
online and in their stores by the bolt, or yard.



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Avatar User Offline foodstick
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 4:58pm  Quote
 
ScaleAero, while I remember to.. is there a specific thread count that is considered tight enough? or is this all typically the same batch to batch?
 
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 8:57pm  Quote
 
Thread count (diameter/density) is relative but most important is that the two directions of the weave
are "identical". Otherwise when shrunk there will be a tighter direction than the other dim. Warp and
weft weave are terms for the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric.

In the illustration below the left to right welf is a different diameter than the warf resulting in shrinking
in one direction more than the other. This results in sag between ribs if turned to run from wing
root to tip.

........................................................
The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the
transverse 
weft (sometimes woof) is drawn through and inserted over-and-under the warp. A single
thread of the
weft crossing the warp is called a pick. Weft is sometimes referred to as the fill or the
filling yarn. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end or end.


Strength is the result of compositing (bonding) the thread with either an acrylic stain (antique look)
or a filler like a gelatin (water based) weave filler then an application of your favorite paint...either
fuel proof, or not.

The chemical sandwich resulting from the above creates a strong, yet pliable finish. Typically this is a
natural moisture barrier in high humidity environments. The AUW, all up weight, of a model finished in
this manner is usually a lighter weight model.

Some people apply a primer and wet sand before application of paint to reduce the weave seen in the
paint applied over the Dacron (polyester). As in all cases, test the materials you chose to use together.
Consult online resources for compatibility of one chemical over/under another...

Unfortunately superior polyester covering ("Super Shrink" Super Coverite) with heat activated adhesive
is no longer available in the United States. Oratex (German Mfg) almost as good as the "Super Shrink"
Super Coverite...is challenged to find a North American distributor from what I have read in forums.


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Avatar User Offline LBJ
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 9:12pm  Quote
 
Ed, the Koverall instructions mention that the "grain" of the material runs parallel to the finished edge. So, it would appear the "grain" is the warp. Correct? That's the way I ran the Koverall on my wing. Seemed to be correct after shrinking anyway. Lane

Another thought, since BUSA was one of the largest Solar-Tex sellers, it would seem that they would be looking to bring Ora-Tex into the USA.

Ha. One more thing. When using Stix-It, I could smell what I think is the same aroma coming from it as using several of the other iron on coverings. Whatever Stix-It is, it is likely the same adhesive that others use.

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Avatar User Offline Rowdyjoe
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 9:20pm  Quote
 
Quote: foodstick
This works fine on 1/4 scale WW1 birds as well...

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ceconitefabric 2.php
You can get 5 yards 72 inches wide for $50.00


If you build a Camel make sure you make lite ply doublers for all the ribs around the landing gear block in the bottom wing, and beef that area up ... as well as the hard points out in the wings... don't scrimp on wood there.

I think you can see some changes I made in the My friends Camel build/rebuild..

Have fun, hope you post a lot of pics and video ;)


Thanks for that tip.  I just finished reading you thread on the rebuild of the Camel.  It was excellent and I learned a LOT. 
I'll definitely build up the area around the gear block. 

Thanks,


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Avatar User Online ScaleAero
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 9:29pm  Quote
 
Ora-Cover-Tex's manufacturer is a bit creative in his perception of market value. I
would think BUSA's shrinking market (fewer builders) would reduce their willingness
to invest in the volume of covering demanded by its manufacturer.

Why not use F&M's Stits "Lite"? A decent Texas company who provides covering to 
the 1:1 as well as their model fabric covering either "Lite" or "Poly-Fiber"
 

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Avatar User Offline Rowdyjoe
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 9:36pm  Quote
 
Quote: LBJ
Ed, the Koverall instructions mention that the "grain" of the material runs parallel to the finished edge. So, it would appear the "grain" is the warp. Correct? That's the way I ran the Koverall on my wing. Seemed to be correct after shrinking anyway. Lane

Another thought, since BUSA was one of the largest Solar-Tex sellers, it would seem that they would be looking to bring Ora-Tex into the USA.

Ha. One more thing. When using Stix-It, I could smell what I think is the same aroma coming from it as using several of the other iron on coverings. Whatever Stix-It is, it is likely the same adhesive that others use.


BUSA is now selling a product called "Planetex".  They claim it's the same as Solartex without the glue.  Application = brush their "Poly-Tak" adhesive on to the surface to be covered, let it dry, and then apply the covering using an iron just like you would for Solartex.  Shrink the material with the iron and then apply coat(s) of their "Poly-Brush" to finish.  Then paint.  The demo video made it look easy.  It has my attention.
I've never used any of it so, I need to rely on the experience of others, like you folks, to help me decide which to use.  I am partial to the less toxic stuff ....whatever that might be.  So, that will play a part in my decision.  I would also prefer a covering that can be painted with Acrylic paints.  I live in the city (with all that goes with that) and would much prefer that my neighbors won't have an excuse to call the city complaining about "strange chemical odors" emitting from my property. :) 
Solartex appeared to be a great solution but, it looks like I'm a day late and a dollar short.  Maybe Oratex will work out in our favor.


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