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Avatar User Offline ScotWare
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 9:57pm  Quote
 
Gotta think it is repackaged Stits Lite

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Avatar User Offline LBJ
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 9:59pm  Quote
 
Ed, for a "shrinking builder's market" BUSA sold (almost) completely out of Solar-Tex in a short time! haha. But, that's kinda like Johnny Carson saying there's a shortage of Toilet Paper and the next day stores sold out of what they had on hand! With the rising cost of ARF's with every boat load that comes in from China, maybe building will grow vs shrinking. Just look at Tower asking $1K for their new (old balsa/plywood tech) TF Hellcat. Way behind the total composite ARF's that Top RC Models is offering. Lane

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LBJ Fort Worth, TEXAS
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Avatar User Offline Rowdyjoe
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 10:05pm  Quote
 
Quote: ScaleAero
Ora-Cover-Tex's manufacturer is a bit creative in his perception of market value. I
would think BUSA's shrinking market (fewer builders) would reduce their willingness
to invest in the volume of covering demanded by its manufacturer.

Why not use F&M's Stits "Lite"? A decent Texas company who provides covering to 
the 1:1 as well as their model fabric covering either "Lite" or "Poly-Fiber"
 


Ceconite has a great reputation in the full-scale aircraft arena so, I would trust their product but, do I really have to pay $10 for a video of the process to determine if I want to use it? 
Most of the processes I've seen so far have included applying an adhesive of some sort, sticking the material to the structure and shrinking it with heat, and applying some sort of sealer.  It's the chemicals I'm mostly concerned about. 
All of the materials appear to be good.



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Avatar User Offline LBJ
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 10:25pm  Quote
 
RJ, the chemicals aren't any big hurdle. Stix-It and Poly-Tac are likely about the same thing. I can attest to Stix-It because I just used it. One 8 OZ can goes a long way. I used just 1/3 of a can on two 58 inch wing halves with flaps and ailerons. You can buy the Randolph Nitrate dope and thinner near Meacham Field in Fort Worth to save an upcharge thru UPS or FedEx. Your local English Color automotive paint store has the Advantage 301 Primer and Acryllic Lacquer thinner. Home Depot and Lowe's will color match their best latex house paint from your color chip page or other color source. That's about as easy as you can get! Ha. This is assuming you plan on painting your model. If you have no plans for that or cannot paint outside, etc, etc, etc, then I suppose you'd be better off with a total iron on covering. Lane

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Avatar User Offline Rowdyjoe
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Posted: August/24/2018 at 11:08pm  Quote
 
Thanks Lane.  I appreciate the info.  Experience is the best teacher and I appreciate you sharing yours. 
Nice to know some of products are available locally.  With all the aviation production, etc. going on around town I should have guessed. 
I'm really leaning toward the BUSA Planetex process as it appears to be simple.  The Poly-Brush product is brushed (not sprayed) on and then coated with automotive primer (or not), then color coated with whatever ...even with Acrylic paint.  I like simple.  :)  I'm not sure what kind of chemical Poly-Brush is but, it appears to be something I could use in my garage with good ventilation and a filter mask.  
I think the biggest reason I like the Plantex process is being able to brush the finish on.  I can get buy with a rattle can application of primer but, the final coat needs to be brushed.  Painting outside isn't an option. 
For my first attempt, I'd like to keep it as simple as possible for a better chance for success.  I don't intend for the old Cub to be a show plane but, I don't want to be ugly either.  The Cub is my practice project before tackling a 1/4 scale WWI bird.   

BTW ...I fly with the Ft. Worth Thunderbirds.  Do you belong to a local club?



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Avatar User Offline ScaleAero
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Posted: August/25/2018 at 8:22am  Quote
 
Health and application process appear to be your key concern. "The" easiest to find chemical warning
flag is when you read the abbreviation "MEK" as a reducing/cutting/thinning/cleaning component of a
painting process associated with any "type of paint". When MEK comes into contact with organics, aka
human tissue...the tissue is "destroyed"...not simply injured!!!

Old school methods/habits of painting are typically more toxic. Lacquer thinner is like Acetone...it will
immediately upon contact be absorbed in skin. Lacquer is still available in big box stores...disguised in
its proper chemical name(s). 

By far...latex paint is the easiest to match and apply than "anything else". The only application issue is
pigments (colors) are not the same physical size. If shooting with any spraying medium you have to use
a surface tension inhibitor flow agent like Floetrol or depending on the color...windshield washing liquid.
The tint in the windshield washing liquid is typically blue, red, or green and will effect the "dried latex".

 

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Avatar User Offline LBJ
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Posted: August/25/2018 at 9:59am  Quote
 
RJ, I am a member of GSW Aero Club on the far East side of FW. Been a member out there over 30 years. We have an AMA District 8 "Jamboree" this Sept 8, so you should come on out. One of our members is Dist 8 VP, Lawrence Harvell. He's organized this rallye. We have club members from Arlington too.



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LBJ Fort Worth, TEXAS
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Avatar User Offline Rowdyjoe
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Posted: August/25/2018 at 11:14am  Quote
 
ScaleAero,
    Thanks for that info.  I definitely need to get educated on the painting part of the process.  I really don't have a place to spray unless I make a temporary "booth" in my garage. 
I've read that some guys actually brush the paint on the prepared fabric.  If so, I don't know how they eliminate brush strokes unless the paint flows so well they go away.  ???
    I have a lot to learn. 



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