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Avatar User Offline marmbrust
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Posted: March/24/2020 at 4:25am  Quote
 
I much prefer the choke on a servo these days. Adds an additional way of killing the engine if needed. Nice model you have there Ken.

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Mark
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Building: Graves' Fokker G1

Flying:Merlyn Graves Ki-100, Ziroli B25, BUSA 1/3 Stearman,1/3 N28, 1/3 Pup,27% Gee Bee Sportster, Sig 1/3 Spacewalker, WH 27% Bird Dog
 
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Avatar User Offline Geezer
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Posted: March/24/2020 at 5:17am  Quote
 

I have installed servo operated chokes on the last three airplanes I have built (all for someone else) but have never done it on an airplane for myself! Methinks the next one (its going to be for me) will have one. I like the ignition kill on the gear switch and the choke ends up on aux 3 normally programmed into the switch just over the throttle stick with up being open.

Doc



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Avatar User Online Dragon Slayer
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Posted: March/24/2020 at 7:15am  Quote
 
Yes, Doc and Mark I think you will have a convert in me !

There are now three ways to kill the Lysander's engine ... the kill switch, the closing of the throttle , and now the choke.

Sounds good.

Ken


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To repair.
102" Meister P-47 Moki 150
1/4 Scale P-47 Moki 400
To maiden
Fatface Skyraider DLE 130
Ziroli Hellcat Moki 150

Flying ...
Westland Lysander 168" Moki 250

 
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Avatar User Online Dragon Slayer
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Posted: March/27/2020 at 2:01am  Quote
 
Just a few bit and pieces were attended to today.

The crunched tail light was removed and the housing built up again in readiness for a new light.


Cowl work : 

The five baffle plates were repositioned, and tacked into place with thick cyano. When this went off I clamped all the free edges in the centre to a disc of scrap ply to try and keep all the individual baffles in the one plane. Then I turned over the cowl and laid carbon fibre cloth in multiple patches around the perimeter on the inside to give strength to each baffle. This was stuck on with Epoxy resin.



Another coat of resin will be laid over the first tomorrow. Solid.

The allen key for the belly pan was given a new bright yellow heat shrunk plastic sleeve. This is done so  it does not get lost against all that black.


If this key gets lost we are in diabolical trouble as the belly pan is the only quick way into the innards. The big storage tank has to be removed as well! Ah, well she is scale.

The inside wheel spat covers have been remounted and snugged up. They are now ready for a bit of primer and paint.





The next bit of work will be to check those big wings.

Tomorrow, Lurkers.

Ken


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To repair.
102" Meister P-47 Moki 150
1/4 Scale P-47 Moki 400
To maiden
Fatface Skyraider DLE 130
Ziroli Hellcat Moki 150

Flying ...
Westland Lysander 168" Moki 250

 
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Avatar User Online Dragon Slayer
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Posted: March/27/2020 at 11:21pm  Quote
 
The baffles have been fixed in good and sound and tidied up and painted with matt black.
When placing the cowl on it became obvious that the three screw holes in the cowl were well worn out. The screws were still holding but with the aid of ever increasing diameter washers ! Funny, if you do not really look you don't see!


The litho liner plate around the inside lip of the cowl has yet to be cleaned up.

Check the holes in the cowl walls all flogged out ... 


There are only three such screw holes in the cowl. That's all you need really as long as you have Tas Oak or such for the mounting blocks and very long 6/32 machine screws tapped in. To think that these have lasted 12 years it is not a bad wear out.

This one is by far the worst and lies at the bottom at 6 o'clock.


This is the one at ten o'clock. the one on the opposite side is the same.

The plan is to clean them all (done) and then lay discs of 6 oz. carbon fibre cloth one on top of each other in a poultice of epoxy resin (West Systems). When cured they will be dressed and drilled and be like concrete. The bowl effect spreads the load for the next 12 years. 

First I use small patches of very aggressive tape to back each hole.


You do not want to use paper tape or masking tape as the resin will find away under it and you will have a he*l of  mess to clean up. How do I know .... 


This is super stuff, heavy at 6 oz but very compliant with lots of resin worked in to the fibres. Small patches were cut and laid in the tiny bowl. Each bit lifted in with a small brush saturated with the resin. Poke it and prod it for a minute or two until the 9 layers (nine!) are tamed into submission.


Each filled hole will look like this. Leave well alone over night, then sand back and each one will be ready for re -drilling.

All three Tas Oak mounting blocks had their threads checked and were found to be sound, I will, nontheless drip thin cyano down the threaded holes and leave them over night again. Then they will be re-tapped 6/32. All will be well. (He convinced himself knowing that this is not always the case! 

Later, Lurkers.

Time for a black, hot Colombian. Coming , Dear !

Ken



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To repair.
102" Meister P-47 Moki 150
1/4 Scale P-47 Moki 400
To maiden
Fatface Skyraider DLE 130
Ziroli Hellcat Moki 150

Flying ...
Westland Lysander 168" Moki 250

 
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Avatar User Offline Cobra1gwt
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Posted: March/28/2020 at 1:12am  Quote
 
Ken, Mr. Slayer, could you post a pic with something to show scale of the engine? Most of us would be impressed, for sure.

Gerald 


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Avatar User Online Dragon Slayer
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Posted: March/28/2020 at 1:19am  Quote
 
Quote: Cobra1gwt
Ken, Mr. Slayer, could you post a pic with something to show scale of the engine? Most of us would be impressed, for sure.

Gerald 

Yes, Gerald I will put something appropriate next to the engine and take a pic to give you an idea of its size when I am next in the shed ... probably tomorrow as I have a few chores to do.

Cheers

Ken


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To repair.
102" Meister P-47 Moki 150
1/4 Scale P-47 Moki 400
To maiden
Fatface Skyraider DLE 130
Ziroli Hellcat Moki 150

Flying ...
Westland Lysander 168" Moki 250

 
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Avatar User Offline martin5465
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Posted: March/28/2020 at 1:34am  Quote
 
Mr. Slayer???    

Cobra...

 
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