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Avatar User Offline R8893
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Posted: July/23/2011 at 6:24pm  Quote
 

I built BUSA's 1/4 scale Dh-4 for one of my clubmates. Pretty straight-forward build. I did install all pull-pull controls and rigging wires not shown on the plans. Gun mount traverses with the rudder. RCGF 50cc engine. 33 3/4#. My buddy painted the pilot figures. Insignia are Klass Kote/K&B/Hobby Poxy. Latex from Home Depot to match the Solartex on painted parts. Water based Min-wax clearcoat. (I'll never use that stuff again)

Finished the model back in March, but weather has not permitted the maiden until today. Had the ailerons reversed for the maiden; damage could have been worse. I'll repair. I was the test pilot so it was my fault, but we had too many people doing pre-flight inspections. Idea was to make sure nothing was missed. We missed a biggie. Single point of responsibility is the best way to go.

Takeoff roll was real straight with very little right rudder required and it lifted off at less than full throttle. Fortunately did not get very high. You can see the wrong aileron input in the photo of the takeoff roll.

 

Chuck


 
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Avatar User Offline mike celeskey
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Posted: July/23/2011 at 9:05pm  Quote
 
nice !!!!!!!!!

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Avatar User Offline drice
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Posted: July/24/2011 at 1:47am  Quote
 

Had that happen to me...Once...about a hundred years ago, when my reflexes were much qicker than they are today. It was a Sig Skybolt. It was a buddy's plane and I was the test pilot. When it took off it started a gentle roll to the left. I gave it right aileron, causing more left, and my reflexes gave it left which straightened it out. Spent the next few minutes flying around trying to figure out how to reverse the ailerons, but on that radio, the reversing switches (remember those) were located under the Tx module (brilliant design).


So I landed. No problem. Ahhh, to be that good again.


I have maidened 100's of planes for other folks since then, and whenever I do, I always remember that day. I don't imagine I will ever fail to check the direction of the flight controls.


Bet you won't either.


Beautiful DH. Hope she isn't too badly hurt.

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Avatar User Offline Tmoth4
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Posted: November/05/2011 at 11:09pm  Quote
 

Quote: John Rood
Quote: R8893
...Water based Min-wax clearcoat. (I'll never use that stuff again)


What did you not like about the Min-Wax as a clear coat?

p.s. Beautiful model, glad she came through OK.

I have the same question. I've been using that stuff as a clear coat for years. I use it on everything except the cowl and landing gear, or wherever raw gas might get on it. On those areas I use solvent-based urethane clear.

Did you use the spray can clear?  I didn't like that stuff.

Jim



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Avatar User Offline R8893
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Posted: November/06/2011 at 7:35am  Quote
 

John/Jim

I know I'm the only guy who ever had a problem with the Minwax water-based clear.....but. When sprayed on the Solartex it dried to what looked like an irregular camouflage pattern. I thinned with water rather than windshield washer fluid. I tried several techniques to wash/prep the solartex that did not work. What finally worked for me had about as much scientific logic as some stone-age fertility rite, so I'm not going to embarass myself by publicising it.

Plane has been repaired, it was not badly hurt. We have not been able to get together to re-maiden it however. And I had to repeat the "process" to have he clear coat look acceptible.

Chuck


 
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Avatar User Offline Maplerunner
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Posted: November/10/2011 at 7:42pm  Quote
 
That is a great looking airplane.  This is the plane I would like to build in the near future.  At present, I am working on a Balsa USA 1/4 SE5a.

Is it necessary to seal Solartex or just a good practice?


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Avatar User Offline R8893
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Posted: November/11/2011 at 7:34am  Quote
 

JIm, it is not necessary to seal Solartex; it is fuel-proof. There are several reasons for clear coating that I see: (1) it makes cleanup easier (getting oil and dirt out of the weave) (2) I used latex paint color-matched to the Solartex on several parts--it needs the protection. (3) it may help prevent oil creeping under the edges/seams of the covering and causing it to come loose. (4) decals and vinyl art probably need to be sealed and protected.

One of my clubmates has a BUSA SE5A. It may well be the best flying of the many BUSA planes in our club.


 
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Avatar User Offline R8893
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Posted: July/06/2012 at 4:03pm  Quote
 

Well here we are about a year after the first ill-fated attempt at a maiden. The second time on July 5 was a charm.

Had a problem in that the owner's transmitter went bonkers. Finally ended up using another guy's transmitter and got everything working OK. Had to remove the cowl to tweak the high speed needle and we left it off for the maiden. Also left the pilot sitting on the ground; he had to be removed for the radio trouble shooting.

The plane flies great. Nice straight takeoff roll with very little rudder needed. Had to add lots of down elevator trim. Full trim on transmitter was not quite enough. Slow flight was very tame and never did seem to want to stall. Like the other BUSA planes I've flown, it liked using rudder in the turns. Had to ge to very low throttle to get it to slow down. Anything above half throttle only raised the noise level, but not the speed.

I had to leave field and go back to work after the first flight. Video is of second flight with a different pilot, and the photos in the link are from my flight.

 
http://youtu.be/UmBGM6j2I-0

http://rkuns.smugmug.com/Events/14-Scale-DeHavilland-DH4/239 96610_nhqdm4 

Chuck


 
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